Indonesia

Pink Beach: The Hidden Gem Everyone Fucking Found

There are places you visit for the history, the culture, or some profound connection with nature.

And then there’s Pink Beach in Komodo National Park, where boatloads of pasty tourists arrive because Instagram informed them that THE FUCKING SAND IS PINK.

And to be fair, the sand is actually pink’ish.

Sort of.

Still, against Komodo’s absurdly turquoise water, it’s undeniably gorgeous, which explains why approximately 27 zillion tourists need to photograph themselves standing on the exact same six square feet of it.

Mother Nature made something beautiful. Instagram turned it into a fucking queue.


DESTINATION: PINK BEACH

GPS COORDINATES

-8.6012, 119.5199

CLOSEST AIRPORT

CURRENT WEATHER

scattered clouds (25 C / 77 F)

AIR QUALITY INDEX (AQI)


OH GOOD. THE SAND IS PINK.

This isn’t some radioactive Barbie Dream Beach dipped in strawberry frosting. Tiny fragments of reddish coral mix with white sand, creating a subtle pink tint that looks spectacular under the right Indonesian sunlight.

Under cloudy skies?

Congratulations. You have discovered beige with excellent marketing.

The funny part is that Pink Beach wasn’t even on my list of things to see in Indonesia.

Not near the bottom. Not saved in Google Maps. Not lurking somewhere on a carefully researched list of Komodo National Park must-sees.

I hadn’t spent months dreaming about pink sand or watched some influencer dramatically walking into the ocean and thought, HOLY SHIT, I MUST STAND THERE TOO.

I was there for a much simpler reason: The liveaboard boat I was on stopped there.

That was basically the extent of my planning.

I’d booked the liveaboard for the broader Komodo experience. The islands. The wildlife. The ridiculous landscapes. Pink Beach happened to be wedged into the itinerary between the things I actually wanted to see, so apparently I was going to Pink Beach whether I gave a shit about unusually colored sand or not.

Our boat eventually pulled into the bay, everyone started getting off, and I followed along like a well-trained tourist.

Indonesian Phinisi boat Alba
Indonesian Phinisi boat Alba

And then I saw it.

Pink sand.

Turquoise water.

Rugged hills.

Boats floating offshore.

The kind of place where Indonesia once again makes your entire camera roll look aggressively mid because literally any direction you point the camera looks like somebody already Photoshopped the shit out of it.

I immediately understood the hype.

Unfortunately, so had every fucking person with an Instagram account.


WELCOME TO THE PINK BEACH CONTENT FACTORY

Being accessible only by boat might make Pink Beach sound remote and peaceful.

Technically, it is remote.

Peaceful is more of a scheduling issue.

The boats just keep coming.

Tour boats. Speedboats. Liveaboards. More speedboats. Each one depositing another fresh shipment of humanity carrying phones, GoPros, selfie sticks, flowing dresses and hats large enough to interfere with Indonesian airspace.

Then the photography begins.

People posing.

People jumping.

People twirling.

People standing ankle-deep in the water staring thoughtfully toward the horizon as though they’ve just discovered the meaning of life rather than waiting for someone to yell: “OKAY. DO IT AGAIN.”

And naturally, everyone wants the classic photograph of themselves casually walking toward the ocean.

Walk.

Check photo.

Walk again.

Check photo.

Hair wasn’t right.

Again.

Someone was in the background.

Again.

A boat existed.

Again.

Nothing captures the beautiful spontaneity of international travel quite like recreating the same spontaneous moment 27 fucking times.

The really impressive part is that hundreds of people can be standing on the same beach while everyone simultaneously attempts to produce photographic evidence that they were the only person there.

Later that evening, another photo hits Instagram: “Paradise found. 🌴💕”

Yes.

You and everybody else.

We were standing four feet outside the frame.


WAIT. WHY THE HELL DOES NOBODY TALK ABOUT THE SNORKELING?

Everyone talks about the sand.

PINK SAND!

LOOK AT THE PINK SAND!

PHOTOGRAPH THE PINK SAND!

STAND ON THE PINK SAND!

Apparently the entire tourism marketing department packed up and went home the moment somebody noticed the dirt was a slightly unusual color.

Because just offshore is an absolutely spectacular reef.

I grabbed my mask and underwater camera and headed out expecting a little casual snorkeling before returning to the boat.

Instead: Holy shit.

The water was ridiculously clear.

Coral stretched across the seafloor in huge formations. Schools of tropical fish and turtles moved through the reef. Color was everywhere, and the visibility was good enough that you weren’t staring through murky water desperately trying to convince yourself that vaguely moving blob was probably something interesting.

This was easily some of the best snorkeling I’ve ever experienced.

And that’s what makes the whole Pink Beach thing so wonderfully ridiculous.

You don’t need another boat excursion.

You don’t need scuba gear.

You don’t need secret GPS coordinates supplied by some mysterious Indonesian fisherman.

It’s right fucking there.

Just offshore.


THE BEST PART OF PINK BEACH ISN’T PINK

The contrast between above and below the water is almost comical.

Above water, the Pink Beach Content Production Department is operating at maximum capacity.

Pose.

Jump.

Twirl.

Photograph.

Repeat.

Below water?

Completely different world.

The noise disappears. The tourists become tiny figures along the shoreline. And beneath you is this enormous underwater landscape that somehow receives considerably less attention than the fact that the dirt back onshore is pink’ish.

Every time I thought I’d reached the best part of the reef, I’d swim a little farther and find something better.

Another coral formation.

More fish.

Another photograph.

Another video.

Just a little farther.

Then a little farther again.

Eventually Pink Beach itself became almost irrelevant, which is hilarious considering that’s what everyone traveled there to see.

Hundreds of people were standing onshore obsessively photographing slightly pink dirt while one of the most spectacular underwater environments I’d ever snorkeled was sitting a few meters away.

Tourism is fucking fascinating.


AND THEN PINK BEACH MURDERED MY CAMERA

Naturally, I had my underwater camera with me.

Giving a travel photographer crystal-clear Indonesian water filled with coral and tropical fish and expecting restraint would be like putting a Labrador inside a tennis-ball factory and asking it to behave professionally.

So I kept shooting.

Photos.

Video.

More photos.

More video.

Swim farther.

Find something better.

Photograph that.

Repeat.

My camera was having one hell of a day.

Until it wasn’t.

At some point during this completely unexpected underwater photography session, the camera apparently decided it had experienced enough Indonesia.

It died.

Not battery died.

Not memory-card-full died.

Not turn-it-off-and-back-on-again died.

Dead dead.

Buttons stopped doing useful button things. The screen stopped doing useful screen things. My underwater camera had apparently reviewed its career options and chose early retirement.

Pink Beach had claimed a victim.

Fortunately, that victim was electronic.

And if a camera has to die somewhere, this isn’t a terrible place to go.

It could have died photographing a hotel breakfast buffet.

It could have died taking pictures of an airport lounge.

Instead, it spent its final moments photographing one of the best reefs I’d ever snorkeled.

There are worse endings.

Thank you for your service, little buddy.

You died doing what you loved: Being repeatedly submerged in salt water by an idiot.


THE “HIDDEN GEM” EVERYONE ALREADY FOUND

Eventually I returned to shore carrying what was now a very expensive waterproof paperweight.

The Pink Beach tourism machine hadn’t missed a beat.

Boat arrives.

Tourists unload.

Photographs happen.

Tourists carefully crop all the other tourists out.

Tourists leave.

Next boat arrives.

Repeat.

It’s basically an assembly line for vacation content.

Which is why descriptions of Pink Beach as a “secluded hidden paradise” are fucking hilarious.

Remote? Absolutely.

You’re inside Komodo National Park. You need a boat to get here. There isn’t a Starbucks around the corner.

But hidden? Calm the fuck down, TripAdvisor.

Google Maps knows where it is.

Instagram definitely knows where it is.

Tour operators have it printed on laminated itineraries.

If thousands of people are arriving every year specifically to take the same photograph, the fucking gem has been found.


TAKE THE STUPID PICTURE. THEN GET IN THE WATER.

Despite all my sarcasm, Pink Beach is popular for a reason.

It’s gorgeous.

The sand really is unusual.

The surrounding landscape is spectacular.

So take the picture.

Seriously.

I did.

Get the walking-toward-the-ocean shot. Stand ankle-deep in the water. Stare thoughtfully toward the horizon like you’ve just reached an important conclusion about humanity.

Make your friend retake it because your left arm looked weird.

We’re all participating in the same bullshit anyway.

Just don’t spend 45 minutes photographing yourself on the beach and five minutes actually experiencing the place.

Bring a mask.

Bring a snorkel.

Bring fins if you’ve got them.

And actually swim.

Don’t stand waist-deep for three minutes, see two fish and declare the snorkeling successfully completed.

Head toward the reef.

Take your time.

Because once you get away from shore, the tourist circus starts disappearing behind you. The boats float above ridiculously clear water, the noise fades away, and beneath you is the part of Pink Beach that nobody seems to market nearly enough.

The reef.

That was the surprise for me.

Pink Beach wasn’t a bucket-list destination.

I hadn’t researched it.

I hadn’t planned around it.

I basically showed up because the boat stopped moving and everyone else started getting off.

And somehow, this random itinerary footnote became one of the biggest surprises of the trip.


PINK BEACH UNCENSORED

Pink Beach is touristy.

It can be crowded.

There will almost certainly be someone standing exactly where you want to take your photograph, and you’ll probably wait patiently for them to move so you can take the exact same fucking photograph.

I certainly did.

But underneath all that tourism nonsense is a genuinely incredible place.

The pink sand is interesting.

The scenery is spectacular.

The surrounding islands are gorgeous.

But the snorkeling is what I’d go back for.

Some of the best I’ve experienced anywhere, sitting just offshore from a destination I hadn’t even intended to visit.

So come for the pink sand.

Or, like me, come because your fucking boat stopped there.

Take the obligatory photograph.

Wait while someone completes attempt number 37 at casually walking toward the ocean.

Take yours.

Crop everybody else out.

Post it online.

Pretend you discovered the place.

Nobody needs to know.

Then put the phone down, grab a snorkel and get your ass in the water.

Because the most memorable part of Pink Beach might have absolutely nothing to do with the beach being pink.

Although in my case, it also cost me an underwater camera.

RIP, little buddy.

I didn’t even want to go to Pink Beach.

Apparently my camera wanted to stay forever.

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